When we returned from our trip to Norfolk Island in December 2013, I had all the intentions of putting together some suggestions for a great week.
But I forgot! Went completely out of my mind. Well the writing part did, the other memories of Norfolk Island remain.
But before taking a trip to Norfolk it helps to have a little bit of an understanding of the place.
A trip to Norfolk Island should be on the bucket list for any person who has researched their ancestors, back to those who arrived on the First Fleet, or who were part of the First Fleet Settlers on Norfolk Island.
These people began an amazing journey of life, conquering the elements on a tree studded paradise in the South Pacific. Named by Captain Cook, and seen by the government to investigate and secure the
Island as a source of spars and sail cloth for the British navy. Cook had commented favourably on the pines and flax and the first commandant Phillip Gidley King in 1788 makes frequent reference to both in this journal. King records the loading of timber for spars and laments the fact that nobody knows how to dress the local flax.
He even has a couple of New Zealand Maoris kidnapped and brought to
Norfolk to teach the convicts how to dress the flax. Pork and grain were shipped back to Port Jackson and after the wreck of the “Sirius” there were more people on
Norfolk than in
Sydney which certainly helped relieve the shortages in
Sydney. as the answer to growing and supplying food and crops for the penal settlement at Port Jackson in Sydney.
Founded in March 1789, the residents were removed by 1814, everything burnt to the ground all the animals and people put onto ships and relocated to Van Dieman's Land now called Tasmania.
In that time there would have been many deaths, especially with the children, but there are no headstones in the Emily Bay cemetery to mark their final resting place, bar one for Nathanial Lucas's twins who were killed when a huge tree fell on them..
There are actually 23 headstones from the Colonial settlement in the cemetery; three of these are headstones of First Fleet convicts. The original burying place, however behind Emily Bay is no longer evident
Why destroy everything on the island? The British thought the French were going to invade, and as they had just finished a war with France, the Queen just couldn't spare her troops to defend those on Norfolk Island.
Then the British thought about the little dot of green and decided to establish another settlement.
This became known as the Second Settlement. A brutal convict prison. No hope of escape, the most horrifying treatment of people, with many walking off the cliffs to their deaths to an unmarked grave in the ocean. A walk around the cemetery gives an insight into the horrors of that time.
A lot of Irish names abound in the cemetery. Brutally treated in the desire of the commanders to teach the Irish a lesson. So many more graves herald those who drowned trying to cross the dangerous waters.
Finally Queen Victoria then decided to close the penal settlement, after hearing of the inhumane conditions.
Then in 1854 she heard a deputation from the settlers of Pitcairn Island. They needed a new home, so she graciously allowed them to resettle on Norfolk. They thought she gave them the island. Not so, this 193 persons were given lots, but so many of them still to this day think the island's history began with Queen Victoria giving them the whole place as their own.
In fact the land was resurveyed with each family receiving 20 acres. Today in Norfolk the descendants of those families who came into being due to the Mutiny on the Bounty with Captain Bligh and his sailors The Bounty sailors were hospitably welcomed by the Tahitians, and Fletcher Christian had formed a very affectionate relationship with individuals that continued over to Pitcairn.
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We have been to Norfolk Island 3 times, nothing like it for a place to unwind, and often think you are in another place at another time. Nothing changes.
First time, perhaps 1990, we stayed in the middle of the Island, in a log cabin. It was winter, I needed a break from my real estate business, why choose Norfolk, probably bcause my travel agent next door showed me some sort of brochure.
We went, and overpacked for the cold weather in June. Well it wasn't as cold as I expected, then I found the shops, and what bargains there were. No sales tax, goods from UK, and other parts of the world, the most beautiful silks from Thailand, I bought heaps. Would you believe I still wear those silk jackets. And fine china? where else could you buy Lladro and Royal Doulton at theose prices.
We ate the best steaks, at a small restaurant, the supermarket was a bit low on stock, prices were more than you would pay at home, and a lot of meat was cryovaced. But we had lived in Bougainville Island and were used to that.
And the gardens? I went on the most amazing tour of gardens, and morning teas with the locals. The scenery? makes the best photos, the history? didnt really appeal or mean much to me then!
The next time 2005, we went with daughter and son in law, and grand-daughter, as a gift for his 30th birthday. This time our friends were there and we stayed at their accomodation walking distance to town. Merv and Jeanette still own Channer's Courner, but have managers in place. They are also part owners of Governor's Lodge.
One of the most photographic places on Norfolk is the avenue of the old fig trees. Originally planted by the first settlers. These majestic trees have the most amazing roots, so large that you can almost hide inside them.
In 2005, I was still recovering from my brain aneurysm. I hadn't begun the task of being serious about any family history research. That came later.
In October 2013, our friends phoned, and asked us to join them for a week. We deliberated for 5 minutes, made the decision, then had to figure out about our four legged children.
By 2013, the Jillet research had been done, the website written and there really wasn't much more to be done, so I thought. Besides, I had inflicted the family research bug on my friend. Then imagine our surprise to learn that one of her great aunts/cousins had married John's great uncle! Small world, but it got smaller.
This time they made all the arrangements. While I won't name the place we stayed at, it did have a remarkable view. We arranged a two bedroom apartment and a vehicle. We arrived, only to find we were given 2 x one bedroom apartments. Now that didn't really bother us, until the young girl showed us the steep staircase where we were expected to struggle with our luggage.
Luckly one of the other guests helped us. The staircase required one hand to hold the rail, and not easy for us who are getting older. On the surface the apartment looked okay. As we also own holiday accommodation, the assessor had just been to ours the day before, and she had made some interesting comments about Norfolk Island accomodation.
Between the two apartments, we had one fridge that worked without freezing, we could find one sharp knife, we had one stove that worked, and so on. No television at all, not happy when the cricket was on. No information to let us know about the TV situation, tuns out it was the switch over, and new television sets were required. Each of the new guests were in the same quandry.
Lesson check thoroughly, a good price does not always a good apartment make!
Then the vehicle. Well it did make the hills, some how, quite slowly at times, the gears did work, if you tried hard enough. Into town we went a little hungry, but most food shops were closed, as the lunch trade was over, and we were early for the restaurants.
But we had a huge meal at a small Chinese owned hamburger shop.
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Jetty |
Down to the wharf, and the biggest fish swimming around.
This was the place where the first settlers landed. It can get quite rough
The next day we had to go to insure the car, and find some network cards.
First stop the insurance, here we were driving around without any cover. We find the office, with a sign, delivering vehicles.
We waited and waited, the shop door was unlocked, no sign of life so off we went to find a phone SIM card, and an internet usage plan. For the SIM, the telecom shop, for the internet usage , and waited, and finally someone turns up. Paperwork was done, monies paid, and out before they closed at 12.30 as most places do on Wednesday.
For the internet, we chose Norfolk Island Data Services - open all day on Wednesday. In "The Village" Taylor's Road. While the data was being sorted by the two computer gurus, I realised we were on Elizabeth's land, in fact down the driveway past "Tin Sheds" and here was her land grant.
That was a co-incidene, I hadn't realised just how close to the village it was. Photos taken, one item crossed off our list to do.
Next stop Pinetrees Tours. Just up the road a little. They had picked us up from the airport and taken us to the accomodation. Driver Trent was most helpful, cheerful and friendly.
As part of the trip Pinetrees Tours also included an island tour.
Then we went to the Chicken Shop for another huge lunch. But this was also who had personally been recommended to us in relation to the eager fishermen to go on a charter.
Again friendly people, who hailed from Bundaberg, and whose family now lived on Norfolk, his parents, also owning accommodation, Aararen Villas. (We checked them out)
Contact for fishing made, next stop the Foodland supermarket. We had brought some provisions coffee, toilet rolls etc, as those things were not included in the accommodation, and thanks to Anne for the thumbs up on that. But overall apart from some major differences prices were okay.
For our island tour we were on separate buses. Our 2 hour tour with Trent went for nearly 3, and unfortunately our friends had to wait for us to get back. But as this was our second familarisation tour, this time we looked at the island through the eyes of both the Westlakes, and Elizabeth Bradshaw.
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The first Fleeters were put to work clearing the area around Kingston and then
set about farming all the land, the land grants were done in 1796, by the
surveyor Chapman |
If you are going with friends, the recommendation would be to make sure when you arrive to be on the same familarisation tour. Trent's family arrived with the third settlement, the Pitcairn Islanders.
We booked with Pinetrees a progressive dinner and the Island Fish fry.
So began our quest to find Edward Westlake's land, and Elizabeth's blocks. A few missed turns and then we were standing in front of her land! That made two things to tick off the list.
The fishermen, were happy they were off on Saturday, then the golfer found the golf course, and more particularly the shop. Couldn't keep the smile of his face, he was in golfer's heaven.
Shoes, golf balls, shirts added to the weight when we were leaving!
That night we began our Progressive Dinner. Well if the first course was anything to go by, this was supurb. Beautiful home, beautiful view, particuarly of the sun set.
Then we set off for the main course. But we knew where we were, we were on Elizabeth's land!
We met the host, Sam and told him the co-incidence and discussed the possibility of "land rights". All good fun, and at our table more convict rellies. Three amazing courses all home cooked, and very enjoyable. The last host was also a convict descendant.
Next day first stop the golf course and left them to hit little white balls around, while we explored the convict ruins. As we had previously done that in a tour, this time, I became the tour guide
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In the background is the Commissariat Store now a museum and
a Church.In the foreground is the
New Miltary Barracks now used as Government offices
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But first we had to give way to a rather large cow, who must have thought we were going to cause some trouble, she eyeballed us, and was determined she wasn't going to move for anyone.
She knew her rights!
Finally she gave in, then we moved on, with just the chooks and geese to worry about.
Around the different museums we wandered, where photo opportunities abound within the old jail ruins.
Further information from the Norfolk Island website follows which provides a good source.
Golf finished, we ventured to collect the golfers. Probably the only golf course where you can loose a golf ball either into a cemetery or into the ocean, depending upon the force of the swing.
We then visited the KAVHA centre. So helpful with information. They pulled out everything they had, and for my part, I realised that they needed an update, and promised to do one for them when we returned, which I did.
But for Mary, she learnt heaps about her convict ancestors. Not only did they arrive on Norfolk on the same boat at Robert and Elizabeth, but of all things, they settled on a block adjoining Elizabeth's in Balls Bay. The children would have all known and played with each other.
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Joshua Pecks granddaughter and Elizabeth Bradshaw' grandson on their 5 time great grandparents land! |
We had been friends for almost 50 years, so for us the world just got a little smaller.
More places to explore, lunch to be had, and a cruise ship had offloaded hoards of passengers.
The town was extremely busy. Home for some cricket, some grandpa naps, and trying to load to the internet. It is painfully slow. That opinion also shared by the locals. But there is a secret, first thing in the morning, when not many people are accessing the satellite, because of the time zones, it was much better.
Then the Thursday night fish fry, and entertainment at Puppies Point. On the west coast of the island, the sunsets are stunning, the sillohuete type photos , a great island style meal, depending on the time, the moon rising and the thousands of birds returning to roost, when the sun sets, all make for a memorable night.
And the fish would have to be perhaps the best tropical fish ever. Here once again we met up with Troy and Sam from the progressive dinner, who also supplied the fish supplier and was the chef!.
This time Trent became the entertainment, local songs and a great atmosphere.
But I was in a lot of discomfort with an infected mouth, cut from a jaggered tooth, I really couldn't eat very well, and finally gave in and went to the hospital and found they had a dentist. I was able to get an appointment, that astounded me. But even more, his charge was another surprise! All good.
We traveled to the top of the island and on the North Eastern side, over a steep cliff face is the Bedrock Cafe. One of the best locations to have lunch, complete with great viewing of the bird nests in the pine trees. Getting there you wonder if you are lost, but down a dirt road and then there it is. This area is also the home of the Captain Cook Memorial.
By now we had visited all of Elizabeth's land, and Mary's land, but Edward's was a bit more difficult.
A friend had retired nearby so we called into their house on the offchance. After so many years in the bank he looked so comfortable and relaxed, they built a beautiful home, and their gardens were once again quite stunning.
Saturday down to the wharf, and the unloading of a ship.
We watched for ages, the fishermen left for their adventure and we visited the Sirius Museum. Their boat was put in the same was.
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The Sirius Museum |
If you buy a ticket for the Heritage Museums, it does not include the Sirius Museum.
That is a separate entry, and so well worth a visit.
On the wall just to the left as you enter is the name of all the First Fleeters.
A wander through the cemetery reveals some very interesting headstones..
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This one on the floor |
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Like soldiers standing guard |
If you are thinking of Sirius History, then maybe Cathy Dunn's tour will suit.
There are numerous shops in Burnt Pine Village. Perfumes are priced less than in Australia, take your passport if you wish to purchase liquor from the Duty Free shop, Sunday markets are certainly worth a visit.
On the left is the fuel being unloaded at Balls Bay. One the right one of the locals putting his boat in. There is no wharf!
Ships are unloaded by tenders
The original First Settlement deaths were buried in the Emily Bay Cemetery, archaeologists undertook and examination of the site in 2014.
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Emily Bay this is the old cemetery |
The land based archaeologists here carrying our remote
sensing of a number of historical sites have moved to Emily Bay. The mystery
has always been who was Emily Bay named after, and
is her grave the one marked on an 1855 map? Today they found anomalies in the
location where the grave is marked - they look like a grave but cannot be
confirmed as yet until further analysis of the results are done..
With the arrival today of Dr's Brad
Duncan and Martin Gibbs and Natalie Blake, the Norfolk Island Remote Sensing
Survey kick's off! Over the next 2 weeks the team from Sydney Uni with support
from the Museum will survey sites across the island to help tell us more about
what lies beneath our feet! There is so much of our history still be revealed,
possibly such as the site of the Emily Bay burial ground, listed on this 1795
Map (State Library of NSW), yet never properly located. It's going to be a
great few weeks!
Jacob
and Ann Bellett house at Music Valley Norfolk island, The remains of their
home, stands today on Norfolk Island at Music Valley, being one of the very few
relicts of the first Settlement.
Then there are all the beaches, the views, the snorkelling, Emily Bay is just so beautiful.
Your photographs will relive the experience for years to come.
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Comments from some of our family who have been to Norfolk Island:
#1
We stayed at the Governor’s Lodge, Queen Elizabeth Avenue just a 10 minute walk from the main town centre. We organised flights and accommodation through Oxley Travel which included seven night’s accommodation with breakfast (Friday to Friday), a hire car, which was a must to get around, a half day Island tour with Pinetree Tours and a candlelit dinner with a bottle of wine, which we can highly recommend.
We were very pleased with the Governor’s Lodge, it had everything we could have hoped for. A small kitchen allowed for self catering, TV and internet service (although slow at times), it was quiet and close to everything. Breakfast was generous, in a large area and the service fantastic.
Norfolk Island for us was a holiday and a chance to discover what I could about Edward Westlake, my 4th Great Grandfather. In preparation for finding out as much as I could, I took everything with me that I had on Edward Westlake, including a laptop with my entire family tree saved in Brother’s Keeper. My first priority was the cemetery and was a little disappointed to find very little reference to the first fleeters.
The next priority was to arrange a visit to the Historical Center at No 7 Quality row. It was closed on our first visit, but the opening hours are displayed on the door, so our second visit was better planned.
We arrived early and were in as soon as the door was unlocked. The lady was busy carrying out all that was required to be open, but spent some time with us to get us started. When I mentioned Edward Westlake she returned every five minutes with books and further references.
I showed her what I had and she was eager to copy everything I had. The copying rates are very reasonable and when I offered payment she replied “fair exchange”. In the end, I think I had more information than they had, but it was still nice to get what Norfolk Island did have on Edward Westlake.
The main emphasis for tourists to Norfolk Island is on the Mutiny on the Bounty and the settlers from Pitcairn Island. We found six days plenty of time to see everything with time to spend on research on our Family Tree. The hire cars could do with a bit of maintenance, but considering the speed limit is 50kph, are reasonably safe.
Driving around there is the obligatory ‘Norfolk Wave’ people are so friendly. Cows wandering the sides of the roads are interesting and have right of way, we were warned that if hit one, no matter what, it is your fault.
The locals, as well as English, also speak a mix of Tahitian and Old English inherited from the Bounty descendants. During our stay we were taught a few of these words and found it easy to read some of the signs written in both English and local language.
One of our highlights was the Government House Open Day which just happened to be open on the Wednesday we were there. We did not know about it before hand and only found out when told by one of the museum attendants that it would be open.
Another was the arrival of the supply ship and watching the method used to get goods from the ship to shore.
Some suggestions
New Farm Road, Norfolk Island
At Norfolk Blue Restaurant, Grill & Bar we specialise in “Norfolk Blue” beef, a unique breed of cattle produced on our 100 Acre Farm from paddock to plate at less than 1km food miles. We also offer an extensive selection of other dishes to suit all palates. Locals and visitors alike claim we are the “best restaurant on the Island”.
In 2010 we won Gold at the Norfolk Island Tourism Awards for the best new business on the Island. 2011 saw another Norfolk Island Tourism Gold award for Norfolk Blue, this time for “Best Formal Dining”.
For those who want to enjoy a great dining experience in beautiful surrounds, the Norfolk Blue Restaurant Grill & Bar is located at 100 Acre Farm, New Farm Road, Norfolk Island and is home to Norfolk Islands own unique breed of cattle called ‘Norfolk Blue’.
They also have a resturant in Burnt Pine Village.
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Bullocks Hut Road, a great view Bedrock Cafe |
Bullocks Hut Road, 2899, Norfolk Island For $10 lunches
Bailey's Restaurant
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Olive Tree for Breakfast and Lunch |
Governor's Lodge Resort Hotel
Opening Hours: Monday - Friday, 10.00am to 4.00pm or by appointment on 23009
The KAVHA Research and Information Centre is open to everyone with an interest in the World Heritage listed Kingston and Arthur’s Vale site, its people and its buildings from the past to the present.
Resources are available to all visitors whether professional or just curious, and include: extensive convict records from 1788 to1856, records, reports, maps and journals from the four periods of Kingston settlement a reading room with our fascinating reference book collection, a comfortable viewing room for the Our Heritage DVD brochures and advice to assist with getting the most out of a visit to Kingston.
Do you want to investigate a family connection? Visit the centre and conduct self guided research using our extensive resources.
Email kavharesearch@admin.gov.nf or drop in to organize a complete research request service with documentation and report.
World Heritage Area
The Kingston and Arthurs Vale Historic Area (KAVHA), on Norfolk Island, is of outstanding significance to the nation as a convict settlement spanning the era of transportation to eastern Australia between 1788-1855. It is also significant as the only site in Australia to display evidence of early Polynesian settlement, and the place where the Pitcairn Island descendents of the Bounty mutineers were re-settled in 1856.
In 2010 the Australian Federal Environment Protection and Heritage Minister, Peter Garrett, and Norfolk Island Chief Minister, David Buffett, welcomed an announcement by the World Heritage Committee that Norfolk Island's Kingston and Arthur's Vale Historic Area has been included on the World Heritage List as part of the Australian Convict Sites inscription.
"Norfolk Island's convict site is a rich historical landscape, where lessons from the past are relevant to the whole world," said Mr Garrett.
"It holds a visual record of harsh and brutal conditions endured by forced penal migrants for more than 60 years from 1788, but it is also associated with innovative developments in the rehabilitation of criminals, that were later modelled to the rest of the world in the 1840s.
"The Norfolk Island story is part of a phenomenon in world history, the forced migration of prisoners to far-flung places, and their subsequent role in developing the cultural life and the economy of the places they were sent to."
Mr Buffett welcomed the decision as being important for Norfolk Island.
"The Kingston and Arthur's Vale Historic Area had a reputation as one of the harshest and cruelest of Australia's penal settlements. A convict settlement spanning 1788-1855, it today comprises a large group of buildings from the convict era, some of which have been modified during the Pitcairn period (from 1856 to the present), substantial ruins and standing structures, archaeological remains, landform and landscape elements.
"The process involved lengthy consultations and much hard work on the part of property managers and the community. I am extremely proud of the Island for getting this site onto the list," Mr Buffett said.
Things to See & Do
There's More to Norfolk Island.
Before they visit, many people say they thought a week would be too long. Invariably our visitors arrive at the end of their stay wondering why did didn't plan to spend longer so they could have done more of the available activities.
A third of Norfolk Island is within national parks and reserves making bushwalking, mountain biking and bird watching around our spectacular coastline popular activities.
Other activities include history, heritage and cultural pursuits such as a visit to the museums, convict ruins tours, island cultural tour and shows such as the Mutiny on the Bounty show. For those who prefer outdoor activities go for a horse ride, snorkelling among coral reefs, surfing, trekking, fishing, swimming and we even have paintball!
Norfolk Island's heritage is so extraordinary it reads like fiction. An enthralling legacy of Polynesian explorers, convicts, mutineers, South Pacific islanders and whalers can be experienced through the architecture, exhibitions, interpretive tours, shows and museums that bring our history to life.
The site of Kingston is World Heritage Listed where 4 museums are located, research centre, Government House, Bloody bridge, the golf course, our beaches, cemetery (yes this is well worth a visit) and so much more.